Buying a quality shoe goes far beyond choosing "a nice shoe" to wear. Understanding the complexity of materials, recognizing the craftsmanship, and knowing how to evaluate the consistency between price and technical content are hallmarks of those who know how to look beyond appearances and possess refined and informed taste.
We are convinced that only through knowledge can we truly appreciate the authentic value of well-made things. This is why Moreschi is committed not only to producing footwear of excellence, but also to spreading the culture of leather and craftsmanship. Materials first and foremost.
Natural leather is one of the most noble raw materials in footwear manufacturing. It is durable, flexible, breathable and, if treated with care, it can improve with time, developing a distinctive patina that tells the story of the wearer.
However, not all leather is the same. There is a well-defined hierarchy of quality, based on:
- the part of the animal from which it is obtained
- the thickness and density of the fibers
- the tanning and finishing processes
- the possible presence of chemical treatments or covering pigments
In this article, we share some information that will allow you to make a more informed choice and understand what makes handmade shoes truly special.
Raw material of excellence: the best leathers for shoes
The footwear industry uses leathers from different animals, each with specific properties. Among the most popular are:
- Calfskin: highly prized for its fine grain, lightness, and ease of processing. It is the material of choice for elegant shoes.
- Sheep (sheep, lamb, goat): soft, insulating, ideal for linings and boots.
- Kangaroo: surprisingly resistant and lightweight; used in sports or technical footwear.
- Exotic leathers: highly prized, they are used for custom-made creations or top-of-the-range models. Examples include alligator, snake, and ostrich.
In addition to the more common leathers, Moreschi also uses precious and less common materials, which require specific craftsmanship to be processed and enhanced. These are leathers that add personality and distinction to selected models, transforming the shoe into an exclusive item.
Pecari
A particularly fine leather from the peccary or taisso, originating in Peru, known for its distinctive grain, elasticity, and breathability. Pecari leather is used for inserts alongside more structured leathers. One example is the Arles model from the Heritage collection, with a brushed calfskin upper.
Deer
Extremely soft and flexible, it is breathable and ideal for all seasons, particularly for lightweight footwear such as sneakers or summer slippers. Deer leather has an irregular grain and a very elastic structure. Moreschi artisans use it to create, among others, the Ibiza lace-up sneaker, which is both elegant and sporty, or the Tirana Oxford shoes.
Foal
Foal leather is actually cowhide that has been processed while retaining its natural short hair. It is a material that requires great care during cutting and assembly, because the direction of the hair and color variations must be managed with precision to achieve a harmonious result. It stands out for its bold and tactile appearance, which adds a distinctive character to footwear.
Every material, however precious, must be matched with the right shoe construction so that aesthetics and functionality coexist harmoniously.
Quality grades: selecting the hide
Tanners classify leather into four grades (1-4) based on the number of imperfections present. This system allows them to select the part of the hide best suited for visible use and understand which parts of the shoe they will be used for.
|
Grade |
Description |
Part of the shoe |
|
Grade 1 |
Leather with very few defects, very uniform |
Premium smooth, tumbled, or visible uppers |
|
Grade 2 |
Small imperfections, but still good quality |
Elegant uppers, brushed uppers |
|
Grade 3 |
Obvious imperfections, requires corrections |
Correct uppers, pigmented or polished leather |
|
Grade 4 |
Poorer parts of the hide, numerous defects |
Linings, soles, patent or suede leather to mask imperfections |
The hierarchy of layers: 5 faces of leather
The four grades of quality are not the only criteria used to classify leather. They are accompanied by the hierarchy of layers, a fundamental distinction for evaluating a product. In the footwear industry, the quality of materials has a decisive impact on comfort, aesthetics, and durability.
This classification takes into account the position and composition of the layer of leather taken from the animal's coat. It is an objective hierarchy that reflects the intrinsic quality of the material and forms the basis for subsequent processing and finishing.
|
Category |
Origin |
Quality |
Main characteristics |
|
Full-grain leather |
The most superficial and compact layer of bovine dermis. It is not smoothed: the natural grain is visible, with any imperfections. |
Very high, Grade 1 |
- Intact and authentic natural grain - Maximum resistance and breathability - Develops an elegant patina over time - Use of the rump in the finest leathers |
|
Top-grain leather |
From the top layer, but sanded to correct surface defects. |
High, Grade 1-2 |
- More uniform appearance - Slightly less breathable than full grain - Less noticeable patina - Good resistance and durability |
|
Corrected grain |
Surface layer sanded and covered with pigments or artificial prints for a uniform visual effect. |
Medium, Grade 2-3 |
- Artificial grain - Homogeneous appearance - Less breathable - Less durable than upper leathers |
|
Split leather |
Lower layers of the dermis, mechanically separated from the upper layer. |
Low, Grade 3-4 |
- More porous and soft structure - Can be suede or finished with pigments - Economical, but not very durable - Reduced breathability |
|
Bonded leather |
Composed of leather scraps and fibers reassembled with resins and pressed into sheets. Not true leather in the technical sense. |
Very low, Grade 4 |
- Similar appearance to leather - Fragile, not very resistant - Not breathable - Sensitive to wear and tear |
Beware of the term "genuine leather"
The term "genuine leather," often used in advertising, can be misleading: it is not automatically synonymous with excellent quality. This term only indicates that the material is of animal origin, without providing details on its quality.
In theory, a product labeled "genuine leather" could be made entirely of split leather, which is a cheaper and less resistant layer, or even regenerated leather, obtained by assembling scraps with glue and resins.
To recognize a truly high-quality product, it is necessary to evaluate both the grade of the leather and the category to which it belongs. A grade 1 full-grain upper will have a value, aesthetic appeal, and durability that are incomparably superior to one made of split leather or regenerated leather.
Moreschi artisans select only high-end leathers, processed with skilled craftsmanship, to offer footwear that combines beauty, durability, and authenticity without compromise.
From hide to leather: the art of tanning
Tanning is the process that transforms raw hide into durable leather that can be used for footwear. Not all techniques are equal: some enhance the naturalness and durability of the leather, while others prioritize uniformity and speed of production. Understanding these differences is essential to distinguishing a quality handmade shoe from one made with standardized materials.
-
Vegetable: uses natural tannins (extracted from wood and bark), ensuring strong fibers, superior breathability, and a warm patina that evolves over time. It is a slower but more environmentally friendly and hypoallergenic tanning process.
-
Chrome: more widespread and faster, it gives the leather softness, bright colors, and lightness, making it versatile for modern footwear.
-
Aniline dyeing: reserved for fine leathers, it penetrates deeply without covering the natural grain.
-
Pigmented or varnished finishes: typical of less noble leathers, they apply a surface acrylic layer that evens out the leather but reduces breathability and naturalness.
The value of an informed choice
Understanding the different types of leather means truly understanding what determines the quality of a shoe: the part of the hide used, the tanning technique, the final finish. These are details that affect comfort, durability, and style, and help distinguish an authentic product from one that is made to look better than it is.
Those who know how to recognize quality don't just choose an item, they make an informed and respectful choice. A shoe made with high-quality leather and crafted with care, such as those by Moreschi, is designed to accompany you for a long time, maintaining its value and elegance over time.