Learning to recognize a quality shoe is not merely a technical exercise. It means educating the eye, learning to spot differences invisible to the untrained eye, and appreciating the true value of things.
Only excellent materials can be transformed into footwear that lives and improves with use. And, while the quality of the leather is essential, the finishes are what truly distinguish an industrial product from a work of craftsmanship.
The manual processing of the leather, the construction of the sole, and the surface treatments are the result of ancient and specialized techniques, handed down from generation to generation. These processes allow us to create shoes with a distinct character and personality, unique precisely because they are made with time, patience, and manual skills developed over years of experience.
Moreschi is one of the rare guardians of this artisan tradition. With the utmost respect for this tradition, we share with you tips and secrets for recognizing quality leather and footwear that can truly be defined as excellent.
Practical tests to distinguish real leather
The difference between high-quality leather and cheap or synthetic materials is clearly noticeable in everyday use. A shoe made entirely of leather (upper, lining, and sole) breathes better, adapts to the foot with use, and, if made with top-quality materials, increases in value over time instead of deteriorating, developing a distinctive patina.
Recognizing quality leather at a glance requires experience, but a few simple checks can help even the less experienced.
- Smell: synthetic leather gives off a chemical or plastic smell; genuine leather has a warm, earthy scent. This is why, when you open a Moreschi box, you are enveloped by the typical fragrance of a pair of quality shoes.
- Feel and crease: genuine leather is soft, elastic, and slightly grainy. Pressing it with a finger creates small wrinkles that then disappear. Synthetic materials remain stiff or form unnatural creases.
- Water drop test: due to its porosity, genuine leather absorbs water drops little by little, while PVC or PU are waterproof and cause them to remain on the surface.
- Edges and pores: genuine leather has visible fibers on the edges and irregularly distributed pores. Synthetic materials have smooth edges and perfectly uniform grains.
- Back and cross-section: without lining, the back of leather appears rough like suede; synthetic leather is often lined with fabric. When viewed in cross-section, genuine leather shows compact fibers and uniform coloring.
- Thickness: genuine leather has a greater consistency than synthetic leather.
A further distinction is that genuine leather burns slowly, releasing a smell of burnt hair, while imitation leather melts and drips, giving off a plastic smell.
Checks to recognize a quality shoe
One of Moreschi's beliefs is that elegance is the result of consistency and attention to detail. In addition to the leather, the overall quality of a shoe depends on its construction, finishing, and hidden details. Below is a list of points to pay close attention to when evaluating a pair of shoes.
Logo and internal marking
A reputable brand pays attention to even the least visible details. The logo must be clear, well-centered, and legible. An imprecise or smudged print reveals poor attention to detail and insufficient quality control.
Welt
The welt is the band that joins the upper and the sole. It must be made of real leather, not plastic, and be well finished: an element that adds structure, durability, and aesthetic value even to shoes with rubber soles.
Adhesives and sustainability
In addition to leather, the adhesives used also affect the quality of the shoe. Moreschi uses water-based adhesives and eco-friendly glues that guarantee strength, flexibility, and respect for the environment, avoiding harmful solvents. This choice reflects an approach that combines traditional craftsmanship with contemporary responsibility.
Weight and flexibility
A quality shoe should be neither too heavy nor too light. A balanced weight indicates authentic materials; flexibility should follow the foot without unnatural creases. A sole that is too rigid compromises comfort; one that is too soft reduces durability.
Sole attachment constructions
Quality soles are not just glued on: they are stitched on. This guarantees greater durability and ensures that the shoes can be resoled at a later date.
Stitching and finishing
Stitching should be straight, even, and free of skipped stitches. Edges should be finished with precision, without fraying or visible glue. The interior should be finished with the same care as the exterior.
Symmetry and fit
The two shoes must be perfectly symmetrical in shape, with aligned soles and heels. When worn, comfort must be immediate: a quality shoe should not pinch, rub, or make your gait unstable.
It is important to remember that, due to the craftsmanship involved, symmetry does not apply to the color or grain of the leather. The designs are not always mirror images of each other: this is not a manufacturing defect, but a sign of authenticity. Each pair is unique because it is handmade, not mass-produced. It is precisely this natural irregularity that gives the shoe its value and character.
Interior and lining
The interior of a high-quality shoe is always lined with soft genuine leather. A simple test: rub a damp finger on the lining. If it absorbs the water, it is genuine leather; if it remains on the surface, it is fabric or synthetic material.
Technical and manufacturing characteristics
There are also technical and construction aspects that have a decisive influence on the quality of footwear.
These are more complex details, often known only to professionals or expert enthusiasts. However, with a few practical guidelines, it is possible to learn how to navigate and distinguish a truly well-made shoe from one constructed with more economical criteria.
Thickness and cut: details that make the difference
Each component of the shoe has different structural requirements.
The ideal part of the hide from which to obtain leather is the rump, which is uniform and resistant, and therefore reserved for premium uppers. The shoulder and belly are more fibrous or elastic, and therefore suitable for secondary parts of the shoe.
A conscious approach also takes into account the ideal thickness of the leather, as recommended by artisans and tanners, and which part of the hide it comes from.
|
Part of the shoe |
Approximate thickness |
Considerations |
|
Sole |
~5 mm |
Must ensure rigidity and abrasion resistance |
|
Insole (footbed) |
~2.5 mm |
Comfortable but stable |
|
Upper (outer part) |
~2 mm |
Must combine structure and adaptability |
|
Lining (coating) |
~0.5 mm |
Lightweight and breathable, often made of sheepskin |
The grain: full grain and corrected grain
As we described in our guide to leather types, the grain (i.e., the natural pattern of the surface) is one of the first things to look at when assessing the quality of a shoe.
The grain is not just an aesthetic feature: by observing it, you can understand the level of the leather and guess whether it has been used for the most exposed part (such as the upper) or for secondary components (linings, inserts, soles). In descending order of quality, we have:
- Full-grain leather
- Top-grain leather
- Corrected grain
- Split leather
- Bonded leather
Full-grain leather is the ideal choice for luxury footwear, as it is taken from the most superficial and compact layer of the hide. It is not smoothed or sanded, retains its natural grain, and develops a refined patina with use. This can be seen in the Mosca model from Moreschi's Heritage collection, a shoe for ceremonies and business events.
Corrected grain also comes from the upper layer of the hide, but appears less uniform and is smoothed and pigmented to cover surface defects. An example of its use is Arles, a brogue shoe that combines brushed calfskin with peccary inserts.
Origin of the leather
To recognize a quality shoe, it is also important to know which animal the leather comes from. Each origin has specific characteristics in terms of resistance, softness, and aesthetic appeal, and this directly affects the final value of the shoe.
Moreschi has always selected the finest leathers, relying on raw materials that guarantee durability, comfort, and authenticity. For high-end men's shoes, the benchmarks remain calfskin, deer, and peccary, which offer the best balance between aesthetics, durability, and comfort.
Below is an essential overview to help you find your way around.
- Calfskin: fine and compact grain, excellent for elegant and formal shoes.
- Deer: soft and elastic, perfect for sneakers and lightweight footwear.
- Pecari: rare and prized, with a marked grain, very breathable.
- Goat and lamb: soft and light, often used for inner linings.
- Pig: cheaper and more porous, less valuable.
- Exotic leathers (e.g., alligator, ostrich): valuable and expensive, reserved for exclusive models.
Tanning techniques: the importance of treatment
Tanning is the crucial phase that transforms raw leather, which is perishable by nature, into stable, durable leather that is ready for everyday use. Without this treatment, the leather would deteriorate quickly; with tanning, however, it acquires new and valuable properties: it becomes rot-proof, wear-resistant, more waterproof, and structurally solid.
It is thanks to tanning that hides become suitable for the production of quality footwear, combining comfort, resistance, and durability. Recognizing quality tanning is not immediate, but there are some signs that can help, especially when looking at a shoe, which we summarize in the following table.
|
Type |
Signs of quality |
Signs of low quality |
Typical use in footwear |
|
Vegetable |
Natural grain, warm, woody smell, color that evolves over time. |
Leather too dry or stiff, premature cracking. |
Premium uppers, durable soles, breathable linings. |
|
Chrome |
Soft and uniform feel, intense and uniform colors, good resistance to wear. |
Plasticized appearance, chemical smell, discoloration or flaking. |
Modern shoes, colored and soft uppers. |
|
Mixed (veg + chrome) |
Balance between comfort and naturalness, versatile leather that retains its shape. |
Inconsistent leather (too elastic or fragile), reduced durability. |
Mid- to high-end footwear that requires versatility. |
|
Aniline dyeing |
Visible grain, natural feel, vivid and three-dimensional shades. |
Too delicate to scratches and stains if of poor quality. |
Luxury full-grain shoes, refined uppers. |
|
Semi-aniline |
Grain still visible, soft feel, greater surface protection. |
Too opaque appearance, reduced naturalness. |
Elegant shoes that balance aesthetics and practicality. |
|
Pigmented finishes |
Full, compact color, good surface protection. |
Stiff leather, artificial grain, poor breathability. |
Casual shoes, mid-range footwear. |
|
Patent leather |
Deep shine, compact surface without bubbles. |
Plastic effect, easy to scratch, short aesthetic life. |
Evening and formal shoes. |
We are champions of Italian craftsmanship
Every pair of Moreschi shoes embodies the expertise of master shoemakers, the selection of rare leathers, and the continuity of a tradition that has lasted for over seventy years.
From the choice of leathers to the natural finishes, every stage is rigorously controlled. When you choose Moreschi, you are not only buying a luxury shoe, but also the documented certainty of its origin and the value of craftsmanship that stands the test of time.